Pas chaud ici, mais c’est très beau.
Pas chaud ici, mais c’est très beau.
I’m getting tired of the intermod my ts-2000 suffer so I got a used ft-879d, added a fp-30 internal power supply, a mh-59a8j which is a fantastic multi fonction mic including volume control and a ldg FTM meter.
I don’t hate the ts-2000 but I have a pager tower close from here and the front-end of the ts-2000 can’t match the ic-7100 or even the ft-897d.
The icom ic-7100 is a fantastic little radio, specially when you have limited “shack” space. I’ve decided to fix it on my desk using a ram mount I had on hand for a old gps I don’t use anymore.
The kit used is ram mount :
RAM-B-138U (dual mounts and short arm)
RAM-B-201U-C (a long arm to replace the short arm)
You can also simply order parts by parts what you need. My setup use the 1″ ram balls and the radio screw directly under the RAM-B-202.
Someone asked me if I was still using the tannoy in my system. Since the beginning of the year I’ve return to horns.
This is the actual setup. It’s not perfect on the aesthetic department and I have to make some decent horns brackets but it play wonderfully. Take note the television is a 70″ for size reference.
The system consist of :
16-350hz = 4 visaton tiw 250 xs charged with 6 8″ css passive radiator on the back. A pair of icepower 500asp and whatever cable I had on hands.
350-5000hz = A pair of JMLC (Jean-Michel LeCleach) expansion horns made by Marco Henry (Musique Concrète) using JBL 2441 and radian diaphragms. The amplifier is a icepower 125asx2 and whatever cables I could find.
5000-20khz (and more) = A pair of raal 70-20xr (seen without the front plate in the picture). The amplifier is a icepower 250asx2 and take a guess for the cables.
Everything is feed to my DEQX crossover/preamplifier/dac. I usually use linear phase 96db/oct or more for the transition between each drivers and combined with the fact I’m using the horns inside a home, I can get the transitional frequency in the 320hz without problems. It’s nice because the 10″ visaton start to sound a little bit muddy over 350hz. I try to keep a balance between latency and high order filters so It’s not a pain to watch movies and having delay on the sound. Normally I like to keep the latency in the 20-40ms. The DEQX is fantastic for that.
The CSS passive radiators permit to tune the cabs where you position them using external added mass. This is a really nice way to optimize the system without using much corrections from the DEQX. In the end I only use little bit of correction from 16hz to 140hz and after that the horns and tweeters are perfectly fine without it. This speak a lot about the quality of the JMLC expansions and the RAAL tweeters performances.
I’ve been able to compare different raal and so far the 70-20xr are my favorite. I can’t stand the 210-10, the 140-15D are too directional and doesn’t bring anything more for a 2-4khz cut. The 70-10 is nice for 10khz and more, under that … The 70-20xr is really versatile and never sound like a ribbons as the 210-10 tend to do. You can cut the 70-20xr at 2khz if you want with a proper crossover and still get a lot of energy They need more power than you may think so I’ve used my second larger amplifier for them.
I do hook the horns and tweeters directly to the amplifiers. I would do that with tube amplifiers using output transformer or icepower amplifier only. With anything else a capacitor is almost necessary.
My source are either a mac mini with a m-audio audiophile sound card or a chromecast (just replaced the old apple tv) using the TV as a converter (hdmi to toslink) to the dac. 99% of the time the chromecast and spotify (on highest quality setting) is used and it sound perfectly fine.
I’ve installed a old realistic power meter on the low frequency cabs to get an idea of the real power need … and mostly to look at needles moving while listening to music. For most of my listening the power consumption is under 1-2 watts per channel on the visaton. Lound session will peak in the 5-10 watts. My amplifiers are way overkill even for the low frequency sections.
The horns are made of rocks dust and epoxy. It similar to concrete. They weigh a ton and by sitting on top of the low frequency cabs damp everything. I need to build a better rack eventually but for now it works quite well.
This is the best sound I’ve had home and heard from a sound system so far and I’m really happy of been able to enjoy it everyday. It play everything you throw at it with authority and accuracy without ever sounding like cheap horns can. There is no shouting, it’s not in your face except if the music played is supposed to be (ex trumpet, big bands etc) The energy from the speakers is amazing and the realism is there.
I just got rid of my flex 6300 and replace it for a icom ic-7300.
If you just want to read my opinions about the icom, just skip the first part talking about the flex radios.
The flexradio life
While I really liked the flex 6300, I didn’t really like the company making them. I feeled like a beta tester who had to pay lot’s of money to participate in the development.
The radio itself started to be usable when the 1.5 version of smartsdr was released and they added some form of noise mitigation. It was still bugged and it still is to the last version I had (1.7.x).
One of flexradio problem is the target market they aim for with their products. It’s not easy to give support for cutting edge sdr technology when most of your clients know very little about computer and mostly nothing about networking. I would not like to be the one trying to solve audio configuration problems, remotely, on a vintage xp computer probably filled with old software, virus etc. on a wifi network provided through the isp modem. That’s probably why most flex owner connect the ethernet cable directly in the computer. It’s probably also one of the reason there is many complaints about the flex maestro right now.
I have to give credit to flex for the community forum on their website and their general support and let’s face it, ham radio operator generally lean on the whiny side, specially the loud ones on the internet.
All in all I like the radio but didn’t like the direction the company is aiming at with the ridiculous (in my opinion) maestro and last couple of software updates. Also smartsdr need to be more customizable for me. I’m gonna miss running the software on a laptop around the house for sure.
The best point about the flex, compared to conventional heterodyne receivers :
While this is all good there are some point I liked a little bit less with the model I had :
Enter the new icom ic-7300
While the flex still have high value (when a new generation is released the price of the previous ones tend to tank) I decided to get rid of it and got an icom ic-7300. I didn’t want to have to deal with flex for an out of warranty repair in the future or try to sell it when they close the doors or bring a new generation of radio. I kind of expect the maestro to be a fiasco even if I hope it’s not.
After couple of days, I don’t see the ic-7300 as a flex or anan replacement or competitor AT ALL but I never expected it to be. While I highly enjoy the radio and it answer 110% to my need I have to be honest the ic-7300 is more a heterodyne radio replacement.
For someone without sdr exposition maybe it could be considered as a full fledged sdr radio but I don’t agree with that. It’s a little of both, well made and integrated (unlike the flex maestro i’ve seen operate in videos on youtube) really enjoyable to use radio. It only have 1 mhz of bandwidth but it is enough for 99.9% of my use since I rarely even used 1mhz on my flex-6300. It does give the operator a good visual experience of the bands while having the best audio quality i’ve heard on an icom radio so far.
With the ic-7300 you can run the radio from the computer with icom rs-ba1 (with an update) and get a bandscope but it’s not even a tiny bit close to the experience of doing it with a flex radio. The usb port in the ic-7300 still run at serial com port speed so what you have is a little bit slow and laggish. The good point of it is the low bandwidth needed will make it easy to use in remote operation (have not tried it yet).
Having played with the icom ic-7600, the 756 pro iii etc, the 7300 is in a league of it’s own making them look like old and slow limited technology. The ic-7300 can replace my flex-6300 where a ic-7600 wouldn’t since i’ve been exposed to a good sdr radio. Now this is for my use, in my shack and on my antenna. I’m not a contester (except once a year), it doesn’t interest me, and don’t do digital modes often. I have to try the digital modes soon and see if my hamradiodeluxe licence work with it.
All in all, using the radio is a such a joy. The screen is fantastic and the touchscreen operation is another step ahead of the ic-7100 (also own) and make the yaesu ft-991 and ftm-400 (also own) look really bad. The touchscreen operation and menu are optimised, quick and easy to use. It’s exactly the opposite with the yaesu ft-991 and ftm-400dr where everything seems to have been designed by someone who never touched a smartphone in his entire life.
I really give credit to icom bringing this radio to market. Not many company would cannibalize their sales of higher-end radio bringing a new technology to market like that. The radio feels ready to be used out of the box and not a work in progress like flex does with their customers. I can see peoples waiting for the next icom release if they are in the market for a ic-7600 7700 etc or simply getting the ic-7300. I would not buy anything else from icom presently knowing how good is this little radio for the price.
I predict this radio will sell really well and be liked by their owner. I only have two days of play time on it and will post a follow up later.
So far, for my use, it’s like a largely improved ic-7600 for almost half the price (in Canadian pesos) and while it’s not a flex or anan replacement, after owning one for a year, it’s not a necessity for me and this radio answer to 110% of my need.
My shack is quite small so I have nothing against smaller radio giving me big radio performance since it mean I can fit more radio on a small desk.
I can’t wait for the next ic-7650, or whatever the call it, from icom and what could be the answer from kenwood or yaesu.
Here is the shack in june 2016
The good points of the icom ic-7300 :
Some bad points of the icom ic-7300 :
So I got a kenwood ts-2000 ham radio transceiver. It’s a decent radio but it does have some weak points. The deftness in hf is one, the second vfo is prone to intermod and the lack of high frequency in the sound etc. All in all it’s still a useful addition to a shack.
The worst part about it, for me, is the noisy cheap fan used inside the radio and the poor logic used to control it. They used a 80mm X 80mm X 15mm designed for noise and a little bit of airflow.
So I tried the 100 ohms resistor trick I’ve read about on the internet and it helped to prevent the stupid fan to start blasting full speed every 30min just doing RX. It work but even at “low speed” the fan is noisy and it doesn’t change the high speed vacuum cleaner noise.
Somewhere on the intertubes someone said they fitted a NOCTUA NF-A8 so I went to amazon.ca and ordered a NF-A8 FLX. There are couple of variation of those fans but they all seems to be 80mm X 80mm X 25mm.
Here is the original small plate propeller fan that is sitting just behind the radio front panel and making all this noise.
After opening the radio I realised something was off. The Noctua seems a little bigger than the original one. I didn’t know at this point the original one was only 15mm thick.
I went ahead and tried to fit it anyway so I removed the old one, cut the cable halfway to reuse it (as a connector) and then installed the 100ohms resistor used to provide a low speed to the fan preventing it to revert to high speed for no reasons.
Then I proceed to find a way to fit the new fan using the original holes. I couldn’t find locally longer m3 screws.
So went for next best thing … shorter m3 screws and small screw driver.
I had to move the fan cable off it’s guide and remove the fan anti-vibration end pieces. This way the cable would go directly inside the radio and the fan would be a tight fit to the aluminum frame. The yellow cable was cut (no need for speed monitoring), the red cable on the + of the original connector and the black cable going to the 100 ohms resistor and then to the – of the original cable. The 100 ohms resistor is just fixed to a ground using a screw on the pcb.
Now will it fit behind the face plate of the radio ??? YES !
it’s a tight fit but if you take care replacing the cable feeding the front screen it’s not a problem at all.
And the radio is back in the shack
The noise from the lowest fan speed (because of the 100 ohms resistor) is lower than the original fan and also provide more airflow. This prevent the fan to get off on high speed as often as originally. If you like a low noise floor in you shack like my, this is an interesting mod to do. I’m pretty sure the 100 ohms resistor could be made 120 ohms with this fan, maybe I will try it eventually.
I paid 20$ canadian for the fan so this is a cheap mod.
My diamond antenna x510 hdm (x510hdm), that was selected to handle my 160 watts amplifier, stopped working last week-end.
I suspected that a capacitor blew since it happened while I was transmitting. I ordered the “high power” diamond antenna so this wouldn’t happen. It happened. The swr where it happen would read at 1.3 1.4 swr normally. The antenna is rated to 330 watts and it’s probably PEP with 1.1 swr. If the swr raise the capacitors inside doesn’t handle enough voltages to get close to the 330 watts rated.
I contacted (call, message, call, message, email, call, message …) radioworld, where I got the antenna not long ago, and they couldn’t help me and asked that I deal with the diamond antenna north america distributor. After many calls and couple email I gave up on trying to get any return from them in a reasonable time. Diamond antenna america is a division of rf parts company and I’ve had a very bad experience dealing with them in the past (support to Canadian market).
I took my chance with diamond antenna Japan and got quick reply to my emails (couple hours delay) and they gave me confirmation of the value used in the x510hdm since it’s different than a x510n or x510.
They also told me some antenna would come with 1000v caps and others with 500v caps. I’m not sure which one I have but my “not exploded” capacitors where 3pf and 11pf. The missing value was in serie with the 11pf and they confirmed me it was a 12pf 1000v that should go there. I got the confirmation from them edited on a picture. I’m adding the picture directly here if can be of future help for someone else.
I will try to source the part locally and replace it, if I don’t post any follow up it’s because everything went well.
BTW did you know a X510 antenna is resonant in the 220mhz band ? I’m using mine as a triband antenna to reach 220 mhz repeater up to 30-50 miles without any problems.
J’ai vendu ma moto a regret le printemps dernier du aux séquelles d’un accident de la route avec chauffard (qui ne devrait pas avoir droit de circuler et n’a probablement jamais passer de permis de conduire de ça vie).
Nos policiers, notre gouvernement et la saaq n’ont simplement aucun concept de sécurité routière. Sur la route c’est de plus en plus le chaos et les policiers ne donne pas l’example en ne suivant pas, eux même, le code de sécurité. Ils ont oublié l’existence des clignotant, que l’on doit arrêter sur une jaune ou une rouge, que la limite de 70 ne veut pas dire 120 alors qu’ils ne sont pas sur une urgence. La seule chose qui les préoccupe, c’est de collecter des taxes cacher comme des peureux derrière un buissons. Ca, “c’est facile et efficace”.
Si vous êtes un policier et que vous devez dépasser une voiture par la droite, sur l’autoroute, cela devrait allumer une lumière. Vous devriez peut-être faire de la sensibilisation envers l’automobiliste qui prend inutilement la voie de gauche (voie de dépassement) au lieu de de dépasser illégalement par la droite. On voit cela des patrouilleurs de la SQ régulièrement (principalement a Montréal sur la 25 et décarie), ils roule à 110-120 dans les zones de 70, zig zag sans clignotant et pourtant ne sont pas sur une urgence. Maudit bel example.
Près de chez moi les policiers se cache juste après une intersection pour prendre les gens à rouler 71 dans un grand boulevard de 50km/h. Devant eux des automobilistes passe sur la rouge, tourne à droite sur une interdiction ou continue tout droit dans une voie pour tourner. Cela à chaque cycle de lumière mais non, ils reste cacher a attendre un juteux 70km/h.
Ce n’est certainement pas caché derrière un buisson que l’on aider les gens à penser respecter le code de la sécurité routière et respecter les autres sur la route. Les campagnes de sécurité ne parle de deux choses, la vitesse et l’alcool. Les gens se coupe, ne respect pas la voie de gauche, pas de clignotant, ne regarde pas les angle mort etc mais tant qu’il ne dépasse pas de plus de 20km/h c’est tout beau.
Se faire parler de sécurité routière par la saaq et nos policiers c’est de l’hypocrisie pur et simple. Un méchant ménage est du et ce n’est certainement pas en alternant entre 2 gouvernement perdus et légèrement attardé que les choses vont avancés.
Je vous invite a lire ceci, cela illustre bien ou nous en somme. Il semblerait qu’écoeurer les touristes pour être certains qu’il ne viennent plus dépenser au Québec est une bonne idée dans l’économie actuelle. Je comprend le principe de cylindré minimale pour l’autoroute mais il y a une limite a écoeurer les gens, ils l’ont largement franchi dans cette situation.
|Canada Moto GuideEd’s March across Canada – Quebec – Canada Moto GuideEd and Rach escape Ontario’s ‘overly concerned’ drivers only to come head to head with Quebec’s authoritarian cops.|
I’ve been running my axial xr10 dahu crawler for some time with a modified traxxas tqi remote and a novak M2 esc using a 3 position switch to control the dig. While functional I wanted to give a shoot to the proportional mode of the M2. I then got a hacked turnigy 9x.
It turned out the M2 proportional mode never worked as I wanted it , even with help of novak and replacement parts from them. I also got a futaba 4pl since they tough my turnigy was the source of the problem. I didn’t really like using the 4pl to control my crawler anyway so got rid of it and bough a pair of micro sidewinder from castle creation.
I started by making some physical modification on the turnigy 9x. I blocked the left stick to only go up and down (used a small washerunder one of the gold screw to prevent the bar from moving), I installed the right stick spring on the left stick so it return to middle by itself. Then I installed the friction bar on the right stick (the one from left channel and tighten it quite a lot) so it’s much harder to move it now and kept the spring for left and right travel on that right stick.
So stick configuration is now :
up-down throttle auto centering
up-down dig friction
left-right direction auto centering
Then I used some old servo to figure out how to configure the remote to activate the dig properly. This can be done with motors but I find it much easier with the servos.
I’m using a hobbyking 3 channels receiver to save weight in my crawler. 3 channels is enough to control the direction and each esc.
Now i’m using this configuration
ail = direction
thr= first esc
ele= second esc
If you decide for a different stick configuration you will have to change the parameter accordingly.
The basic reasoning behind the configuration for a dig is that you will have to multiply the output of the dig stick to the one from the throttle and send this to the esc. In order to multiply, the dig stick must output something different than the normal -100 0 100 output. What you need is a 100 100 0 and a 0 100 100 curves.
This can be done in the menu page 7, the result is shown here
In order to do that you will have to create cv1 and cv2 and shown bellow
Now that we have usable value for dig to multiply the throttle with, we go back to page and create the output to each receiver channels
My receiver configuration is :
ch1 = direction or ail
ch2 = first esc
ch3 = second esc
I won’t go in the detail on how to edit and modify value in the menu but it quite easy once you learn how to use the d-pad and the menu and exit button.
The result will be something like this
First thing to know is that the output for ch2 and ch3 are identical except for the curves used in the multiplication, one use curve c1 and the other curve c2.
So start with ch2 and configure the first line as the throttle stick with these configurations
Now we need to create the line 2, or the one used for the multiplication with the dig stick (in my case it’s ELE).
To do that you need to add a second line for ch2 and then edit it so the source is now your dig stick, the multpx is changed to multiply and the curves is set to either c1 or c2 that you created before. Here is how it should look.
You need to do the same configuration for ch3.
Once done you should end up with this configuration that I previously shown
It’s now time to test the configuration with either you servo test setup or your esc and do the c1 and c2 adjustment so the dig stick position activate the proper position.
As needed you can also adjust the end limit and the trimmer in the page 6.
I started with these value and fine tuned as needed. Keep in mind that even if the value of the limit can go up to 125%, going over 118 119 can cause cross channels interferences. If you get glitches running the crawler try to back theses value down a little.
There is also a way to use a 3 position switch to override the dig stick if this have any use for you. For that you will have to do a new mix that will replace the ELE value with the switch you select. I recommend not playing with that for now but once you get everything working you can try some variation of this configuration.
IMPORTANT : don’t forget to do a proper esc calibration once you connect the receiver to the esc.
Spectacle principalement conçu autour du visuel ou la musique semble plus appuyer le visuel que l’inverse. Je crois que la première était a mutek il y a quelques mois. Pour une fois le son au métropolis était acceptable.
La structure est blanche donne l’impression d’une pille de cubes 3d empilés les uns sur les autres à la “Q*bert”et sur celle-ci pointe un projecteur très puissant et parfaitement aligné. L’effet visuel est très impressionnant en personne. La caméra ne le rend pas bien mais le vidéo peut vous donner une idée tout de même.
C’est certainement l’effet visuel le plus réussi et intégré à la musique auquel j’ai assisté.